Burgos, Spain

Casa Ojeda opened in Burgos in 1912 and has been the city's reference point for Castilian cooking ever since. Burgos is the capital of morcilla de Burgos, and Casa Ojeda is where the sausage is treated with the seriousness it deserves. The morcilla arrives grilled in thick slices, the rice inside swollen with rendered fat and onion, the skin just crisped from the heat. It comes as a tapa, as a starter, and as a garnish to the cocido castellano. The dining room is formal without being stiff, and the wine list runs deep into the Ribera del Duero vineyards that begin a few kilometres south of the city.