Cosenza, Italy

A 20-seat family trattoria in the historic centre of Cosenza, hidden behind an unmarked door on Corso Plebiscito between the artisan shops and the river. The owners run the floor and their daughter cooks the kitchen. The menu is whatever was good at the market that morning, written on a chalkboard hung from a beam. The antipasto della casa lands on every table without ordering: slices of soppressata di Calabria — sweet and piccante next to each other — beside cubes of caciocavallo silano, sun-dried tomatoes, eggplant under oil, marinated porcini from the Sila uplands, and a small dish of 'nduja with bread to scoop. Lagane e ceci, coniglio alla cacciatora, and pasta with the morning's wild greens follow. Reservations only.