Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Željo sits on Kundurdžiluk Street in the Baščaršija, the old bazaar quarter of Sarajevo, and has been grilling ćevapčići since 1961. The room is small and loud. Plastic chairs, shared tables, orders shouted across the counter. You get ten or five pieces, somun bread comes torn and warm, kajmak arrives in a small dish. The onion is raw and chopped coarse. Nobody explains the menu because there is one thing on it. Locals argue whether Željo or its neighbour Petica makes the better ćevap — that argument has lasted decades and shows no sign of resolution.