Osteria del Sole

Bologna, Italy

The Osteria del Sole has sold wine from this low-ceilinged room since 1465. It serves no food. You order a glass at the bar, find a seat at a communal table, then walk three steps across the alley to Bottega Ranocchi 1972 for mortadella, a wedge of cheese, or whatever is behind the glass counter. You bring it back yourself. That arrangement has held for five centuries. Old labels cover the walls from floor to ceiling, and by noon every table is taken.