Porto, Portugal

Casa Guedes is a sandwich counter in Porto's Praça dos Poveiros that has been doing one thing since 1987: roast pork with chouriço on a crusty roll. The pernil is slow-roasted until the fat melts through the meat, sliced thick and piled into a papo-seco with a grilled chouriço split alongside it. Chouriço de carne from the Trás-os-Montes and Beira regions is the standard companion, hot off the grill, its paprika-red fat running into the bread. Casa Guedes has a second branch but the original counter in Praça dos Poveiros is where the queue forms at lunch. There is no printed menu and no decision to make.